Frequently Asked Questions about Fes and Morocco
Where is Dar Roumana?
Dar Roumana is located between two entrances to the medina: Bab Guissa and Ain Azlitan. The famous Palais Jamaii Hotel is loacted next to Bab Guissa, and as such is a convenient landmark. There is ample guarded parking at Bab Guissa and a smaller guarded car park at Ain Azlitan. At either car park, there are usually several attendants with "carossas" or wheel-carts that can accompany you to our door. The attendants should be tipped 20-30 dirhams (more if you have extremely large or heavy luggage). Once inside the medina walls, Dar Roumana is a 5-minute walk. From our door, the two main streets of the medina, the Talaa Kabira and Talaa Saghira, are only a 5 minute walk. The neighborhood "Zkak Roumane" is a quiet residential area near a cedar-scented street of wood-workers and carpenters.
Should I hire a guide?
A guide is not a necessity for a visit to Fes medina. Armed with a decent map and a willingness to get a little "lost ," anyone can see the medina at their own pace. We supply our guests with the mobile phone number of the concierge to call in case they need help finding their way, but to date we've received only one call. Guides can be useful to ward off unwanted attention, and some offer good information about the history and lore of the medina and its sights; however, all guides will incorporate some sort of shopping into the tour. To hire a guide or not depends largely upon personal taste and comfort levels. The excellent "Fes: From Bab to Bab" can be bought at several bookstores in Fes and is a great compilation of several walking tours of the medina, including maps, photos, and descriptions of the sites and areas.
What to see in Fes?
While there are some wonderful medersas (Koranic schools) and medieval sights (tanneries, souks, mosques), the primary attraction of Fes is the medina itself. Unlike Marrakech, the medina of Fes would look and operate much the same if you stripped away the tourism industry. Most of its residents still live and work within its walls: millers, carpenters, weavers, bakers, butchers, to name but a few. It is fascinating to simply observe the colourful parade of Fassis going about a very traditional way of life. Specific sights of note are: Bou Inaniya Medersa, Karaouiye Mosque, Nejjarine Square and Museum, Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss, Seffarine Square, Chouara Tannery, the Mellah and Royal Palace, the Merenide Tombs (wonderful view from this hillside).
Shopping in the Souk?
Many visitors love shopping in the souk (market) with the haggling and the glasses of mint tea. Approached light-heartedly and with a sense of humor, it can be extremely entertaining. However, nothing ruins the experience more than feeling "ripped off". There are a couple tips for visitors that can help make a day in the souk more enjoyable and successful for all involved. First, unlike many "western" cultures where the price of goods is fixed and is roughly related to the cost of producing the item, in the souks (and widely across Morocco), the value of an item is determined by its worth to the buyer. Obviously, a merchant will not sell anything if he's not going to make some sort of profit. A good way to proceed is identify the items that you like and before offering a starting price and determine what its worth to you (i.e. what is the most you would pay for it). The merchant's first price may be wildly more expensive , but you can counter with a price below your final price. If he seems unwilling to lower his price to something in the ballpark of your offer, you can either thank him and say good bye or dig your heels in and try some more. The key to not feeling ripped off is to never pay more for something than its worth to you.
You will always find someone who paid less than you did for an item, but if the slippers are worth 15 euros to you, then no matter what someone else paid for them.
Also, shop around first and price items at several different shops. This will give you a better idea of what a reasonable price is for an item. There are also numerous government sanctioned co-ops where the prices are fixed. These co-ops often offer the same items found in the souk, but just because the price is fixed does not mean it is "reasonable" or good value. In short, you pay a high premium to avoid the game of haggling.
Some merchants have developed an aggressive sales pitch (by some standards). If confronted with an fast-talking salesman, do not take anything he says personally - it is all part of a culturally acceptable game. Relax, have fun with it (but stick to your guns), or if you find the pitch uncomfortable or too "in your face", then maybe consider doing your shopping elsewhere.
Handicraft Specialties of Fes?
Fes is renowned for its leather goods, wooden items (screens, tables, frames, etc), silver and brassware, and certain types of ceramics...but you will find a little of everything in the souks.
Renting a car in Morocco?
Renting a car (self-drive) is a fantastic way to see Morocco. Several international companies (Avis, Budget, National, etc.) have offices in most major cities and rental rates are reasonable. There are large new motorways (toll roads) connecting Tangier -Rabat/ Casablanca-Fes. A portion of the motorway extends half way from Casablanca to Marrakech. Other roads are perfectly acceptable, but may be slower going due to local traffic. These roads, however, offer a much better glimpse into the "real" un-touristed Morocco. Other drivers and careless pedestrians may give you the occasional fright, but if you drive defensively and give all other vehicles wide berth, you should be fine. Night driving is not recommended as many vehicles do not have lights and pedestrians and donkey carts clog the shoulders.
What is a riad? A dar?
Technically, a riad is a single (or sometime two-storeyed) building constructed around an interior garden, often with trees and fountain(s). A dar is very similar, but it is generally composed of more storeys and the interior garden or patio is often completely tiled, though it may still contain plants in pots or beds and fountains. The courtyard of a dar can often be closed or covered during winter months, which can make a dar more comfortable in the winter than a riad. Nevertheless, because most tourists recognise the term "riad," it has come to mean any sort of lodging in a traditional home (simple to palatial, riad or dar) with an interior courtyard.